2001 to 2005: 2002-03 . . . Episode 3a - New Mexico

The weather drove us into New Mexico - it was really getting cold! We followed Hwy 40 into New Mexico and our first night was spent at Grants about 60 miles west of Albuquerque. Even though New Mexico is one of the youngest states, it is rich with history, ancient Indian sites and the struggles with Mexico for the territories.There were a lot of places to explore . . . BUT . . . New Mexico (especially the higher northern part) is definitely September country. There was only one place we didn't want to miss - the Pueblo of Acoma - Sky City - the oldest, continuously inhabited city in the United States.

The Acoma Pueblo sits on top of a high mesa. They say this site was chosen because it made an ideal site for defence against enemies although the oral heritage tells of the origin and migration that the site was Hak'u-the place ready for people to occupy. It was said to be occupied as early as A.D. 1150.

Tourists are not allowed on the pueblo without a guide and there was a $10.00 fee to take up a camera. Our guide shared with us the kinds of conflicts the peoples' had experienced (primarily with the Church) and how they had retained much of their culture, beliefs, symbols, rituals and traditions within the Catholic religion. The Acoma are a matriarchal culture. Our guide was not married and he lived with his sister and her family. It was his responsibility to discipline his sister's children.

There are still about thirty families that live on the mesa and they retain many of the old way (there is no electricity) and traditions but have adopted other modern ways (like the windows and doors) to make their lives more comfortable.

The products sold on the pueblo (pottery, jewellery, fabric) are all created by the people who live there.

The Kiva is a meeting place for men (so said Orvil, our guide). There are no doors and only a small opening in the wall where the women can pass in messages. The entrance is a hole in the roof - thus the ladder. Every Indian community we explored had a Kiva or meeting place and they were very central to life.

Mount Taylor Mountain (one of the four Sacred Mountains) is visible from the pueblo.

We took Hwy 6 to bypass Albuquerque and met Hwy 25 at Los Luma on our way to Las Cruces. All along the highway there is a variety of Roadside Trading Posts - each has it's own particular charm.

We made Las Cruces our base for exploring. Las Cruces is in the Mesilla Valley surrounded by the Organ Mountains. The is a strong agricultural area with pecan groves, cotton fields and chilis. There still is desert but it's very different from Arizona and California. The weather tends to be cooler, but still very pleasant. It could be almost freezing at night, but as soon as the sun comes up, it gets very warm and cools down with sunset.

We really like it here . . . so much to do and see. Rather that being surrounded by "snow-birds", the people are mostly local who have chosen to live here. The markets, the festivals, we enjoyed it so much. It seems to be a centre for the arts and crafts, there are open markets almost daily and the University (NMSU) has quite an influence. The Mexican influence is very strong, too . . . the architecture, food (we're trying our hand at making burritos, tacos and have graduated to non-gringo chili). The RV Park has very large sites surrounded by grass and trees and we have made friends with our closest neighbours as well as the owners.